Going To Berlin

[lennygoran]

We're going to Berlin in late Oct as well as Dreden and Prague-no musical activities but I couldn't help being impressed by how many operas Berlin is doing!

http://www.deutscheoperberlin.de/en_EN/ ... ine-206875

Vasco da Gama
Giacomo Meyerbeer (1791 – 1864) / read more
4. October, 2015
Aida
Giuseppe Verdi (1813 – 1901) / read more
22. November, 2015
La Favorite / concert version
Gaetano Donizetti (1797 – 1848) / read more
2. December, 2015
Salome
Richard Strauss (1864 – 1949) / read more
24. January, 2016
The Makropulos Affair
Leos Janácek (1854 – 1928) / read more
19. February, 2016
I Capuleti e I Montecchi / concert version
Vincenzo Bellini (1801 – 1835) / read more
29. February, 2016
Morgen und Abend / First performed in Germany
Georg Friedrich Haas (*1953) / read more
29. April, 2016
Norma / concert version
Vincenzo Bellini (1801 – 1835) / read more
7. May, 2016
The Abduction from the Seraglio
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 – 1791) / read more
17. June, 2016


Opera Repertoire

Hector Berlioz (1803 – 1869)
Roméo und Juliette / read more
28., 29. August, 2015

Georges Bizet (1838 – 1875)
Carmen / read more
16., 22., 24. April; 2., 7. July, 2016

Vincenzo Bellini (1801 – 1835)
I Capuleti e i Montecchi (konzertant) / read more
29. February; 3. March, 2016
Norma (konzertant) / read more
7., 12. May, 2016

Benjamin Britten (1913 – 1976)
Peter Grimes / read more
7., 11., 18. February, 2016

Claude Debussy (1862 – 1918)
Pelleas and Melisande / read more
9., 17., 19. September, 2015

Gaetano Donizetti (1797 – 1848)
La Favorite (konzertant) / read more
2., 5., 8. December, 2015
L'elisir d'amore / read more
18., 22. December, 2015; 4., 6. March; 20., 27. May, 2016
Lucia di Lammermoor / read more
16., 21. October, 2015; 1., 4. May, 2016

Georg Friedrich Haas (*1953)
Morgen und Abend / Deutsche Erstaufführung / read more
29. April; 3., 11., 22. May, 2016

Leos Janácek (1854 – 1928)
The Makropulos Affair / Premiere / read more
19., 25., 28. February; 27., 30. April, 2016
The Cunning Little Vixen / read more
17., 19., 23., 27. [2×] December, 2015

Ruggero Leoncavallo (1857 – 1919)
Pagliacci / read more
13., 18. September, 2015; 23., 26. March, 2016

Pietro Mascagni (1863 – 1945)
Cavalleria rusticana / read more
13., 18. September, 2015; 23., 26. March, 2016

Giacomo Meyerbeer (1791 – 1864)
Vasco da Gama / Premiere / read more
4., 7., 11., 15., 18., 24. October, 2015

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756 – 1791)
The Abduction from the Seraglio / read more
17., 22., 25., 28. June; 1., 6. July, 2016
Don Giovanni / read more
28. October; 1., 12. November, 2015
The Marriage of Figaro / read more
8., 10., 30. October, 2015
The Magic Flute / read more
26. September; 25. October; 13. November; 12., 29. December, 2015; 2. January; 12. February; 23. April; 15. May; 3. June; 8. July, 2016

Giacomo Puccini (1858 – 1924)
La Bohème / read more
4., 9., 11., 13. [2×]., 28., 31. [2×] December, 2015
Manon Lescaut / read more
5., 14. November, 2015; 13., 17. March, 2016
Tosca / read more
21. November; 20. December, 2015; 6., 10. January; 28. March; 14. May; 9., 15. June, 2016
Turandot / read more
12., 20., 25., 27. September; 24., 27. November, 2015

Gioacchino Rossini (1792 – 1868)
The Barber of Seville / read more
26. October; 26. December, 2015; 3. January; 5., 13. February, 2016

Richard Strauss (1864 – 1949)
Salome / Premiere / read more
24., 29. January; 3., 6. February; 2., 6. April, 2016
The Egyptian Helen / read more
19. March; 1., 8. April, 2016
Elektra / read more
3., 7. April; 23., 26. June, 2016
The Love of Danae / read more
12., 18. March; 9. April, 2016
The Knight of the Rose / read more
10., 14., 17. April, 2016

Giuseppe Verdi (1813 – 1901)
Aida / Premiere / read more
22., 25., 28. November; 3., 6., 10. December, 2015
Nabucco / read more
14., 17. October, 2015; 7., 23., 30. January, 2016
Rigoletto / read more
25., 31. March; 24., 30. June, 2016
La Traviata / read more
9., 17., 22. January; 21., 27. February; 2., 6. May, 2016
The Troubadour / read more
28. May; 4., 8., 11., 16. June, 2016

Richard Wagner (1813 – 1883)
Lohengrin / read more
31. January; 14. February; 5., 8. May, 2016
Rienzi, The Last of the Tribunes / read more
26. February; 5., 11. March, 2016
Tannhäuser and the Singers' Contest at Wartburg / read more
31. October; 15. November, 2015; 24., 27. March, 2016
Tristan and Isolde / read more
5., 12., 18. June, 2016
The Ring of the Nibelung - Rhinegold / read more
1., 13. April, 2017 (Season 2016/2017)
The Ring of the Nibelung - The Valkyrie / read more
2., 14. April, 2017 (Season 2016/2017)
The Ring of the Nibelung - Siegfried / read more
5., 15. April, 2017 (Season 2016/2017)
The Ring of the Nibelung - Twilight of the Gods / read more
9., 17. April, 2017 (Season 2016/2017)

[John F]

Why no musical activities in one of the most musical cities in the world? With three opera companies and six symphony orchestras, just for starters. Of course Berlin and possibly Dresden are also major centers of Eurotrash productions, so maybe it's just as well. You'll have plenty to do during the day, even if you don't do anything during the evenings. You'll also eat well.

Prague is another great musical city, with three opera houses and 2-3 orchestras. There you might make an exception and go to a performance in the Estates Theater (Stavovské Divadlo), the very same opera house in which Mozart conducted the world premiere of "Don Giovanni" and "La Clemenza di Tito." It's a little jewel box of a theater and whatever may be going on onstage, you'll have lots to look at all around you. Performances there are given by the ensemble of the National Theater (Narodny Divadlo), where it's almost obligatory to take in a performance of "The Bartered Bride."

I mentioned eating. Later I'll pass along Francis's recommendations for Berlin and Prague. Never been to Dresden and know nothing about it; when you get back you can tell us.

[lennygoran]

Why no musical activities in one of the most musical cities in the world?

We don't have that much time-4 nights in Berlin, 2 in Dresden, 4 in Prague--looks like there's so much to keep us busy. Thanks for the tips-if you can keep them coming!

Found this page:
http://www.czechopera.cz/index.php?sele ... 5&x=32&y=8
This is tempting:
5 NOV 2015, Thursday, at 19:00

Magic Flute, opera sung in: German

Estates Theatre

Regards, Len

[John F]

This is tempting:
5 NOV 2015, Thursday, at 19:00

Magic Flute, opera sung in: German

Estates Theatre

Do it!!!

[lennygoran]

This is tempting:
5 NOV 2015, Thursday, at 19:00

Magic Flute, opera sung in: German

Estates Theatre

Do it!!!

Well we'll see. Regards, Len

[John F]

My last trip to Berlin was in 2005, so the diary I kept of eateries isn't up to date, but I expect these places are still open. A general observation: the Germans haven't banned smoking in public places, so you want to sit in the no smoking area of the restaurant.

Relying on the recommendations of friends, guidebooks, and the Marcellino Restaurant Report 2005 for Berlin, and making no reservations (we often ate after a performance rather than before), we chose the following:

Cafe Einstein
Kurfürstenstrasse 58 (near Derfflingerstrasse)
U1,2: Nollendorfplatz
(030) 261 5096
http://www.cafeeinstein.com/
open daily 10am-2am

An Austrian-style coffee house with a full dinner menu, not convenient to much of anywhere except our hotel. Bright gilt and mirrors decor. We went there for a late lunch/early dinner after checking in. I had veal medallions with peppercorn & rum sauce, my friends had wiener Schnitzel and goulasch with dumplings; dessert, cheesecake & apple strudel with vanilla sauce. We all sampled all the dishes and approved them. Smoking allowed but our table was in a (fairly) no-smoking area.

Lutter und Wegner am Gendarmenmarkt
Charlottenstrasse 56 (near Taubenstrasse)
U2,6: Stadtmitte, U6: Französische Strasse
(030) 202 9540
http://www.lutter-wegner-gendarmenmarkt.de/
open 11-3, kitchen open 12pm-12:30am

A well-known, middle-priced German-style restaurant within walking distance of the museums, opera houses, and concert hall in Berlin Mitte. Dark wood paneling, well-spaced tables; smoking allowed but nobody near me was indulging. I ate there twice. Lunch: Strudel vom Zander, that is, a Berlin whitefish called Zander and translated as "pike-perch," promoted as a local specialty and wrapped with strudel pastry. Its mild, slightly fishy taste was nothing special. Side dish, sautéed white onions with paprika, tasty. Apple strudel with vanilla sauce, the apples surprisingly tart to go well with the sauce. Late dinner: Berlin-style potato soup, Sauerbraten with red cabbage and sautéd potatoes. The Sauerbraten not sweet and sour as often in the US but sour and herbal, an indefinable interesting mix of flavors; red cabbage also not sweet and sour but with spices such as cinnamon to balance the vinegar. One of my best Berlin meals.

Opernpalais
Unter den Linden 5 (Oberwallstr.)
U2: Hausvogteiplatz
(030) 202 683
http://www.opernpalais.de/
Café: open 8am-midnight
Gasthaus Schinkel-Klause: open 11:00am-1am
Yes, the building once was a palace, right next door to the State Opera and near the Museum Island. Had lunch in the elegant Café, Viennese in style like the Einstein (decor too): Wiener Schnitzel, OK but nothing special. For pastry and coffee after the theatre or opera it's a convenient and enjoyable choice. On another day had lunch sitting outside the Schinkel-Klause, a traditional German-style full-service restaurant; the day's special, a grill platter with chunks of beef, lamb, and turkey, a couple of small bratwursts, a slab of German bacon, lots of sautéed potatoes, sauce made of wild mushrooms (Pfifferlinge) and some nuts in it too. This is what people mean when they talk of German food being heavy. I love it.

Café Möhring
Jägerstrasse/Charlottenstrasse corner
U2,6: Stadtmitte
(030) 92 240
open 10am-11pm

After a performance we walked down Charlottenstrasse (one of Berlin's Restaurant Rows) but were striking out since we had no reservation, so we stopped into this pleasant café. Turned out to have a full dinner menu, German and Italian dishes. Two of us had Jägerschnitzel (Schnitzel with mushrooms), one had tagliatelle with smoked salmon, very enjoyable. The pastries from the café even more so.

Aigner
Charlottenstrasse 50-52 (Französische Strasse)
U2,6: Stadtmitte, U6: Französische Strasse
(030) 203 7518 50
http://www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de/
open noon-2am, kitchen open noon-11:30pm

A stylish-looking German/Austrian restaurant with particularly friendly service, and prices still in the moderate range. I went in on impulse, had the veal goulasch with porcini mushrooms (Steinpilzen), my second-best Berlin meal (after L&W's Sauerbraten), and wish I'd discovered the place earlier so I could eat there again.

Some other places perhaps worth mentioning though not at such length. While doing the many museums at the Kulturforum, had a quick lunch of Bratwurst and potato salad (American-style with mayo) in the cafeteria next to the Kupferstichkabinett; fine for what it was, nothing special. I went to the Nicolaiviertel hoping to lunch at Zum Nussbaum, the oldest Berlin inn, but without a reservation no chance, so instead went into Ephraim's Restaurant und Cafe at the back of the Ephraim-Palais. The most boring meal I had in Berlin, boiled beef and potatoes with horseradish sauce, had to salt it pretty well to give it any flavor at all--this is the downside of German cooking, and I was pleasantly surprised that in a week of restaurant-hopping I only ran into the bad old cuisine this once.

Finally, one of my friends had lunch in the great department store KaDeWe on Wittenbergplatz; the "Gourmet-Etage" on the 6th floor is essentially a food store a la Harrods in London, but with many smallish sit-down bars where you can eat different kinds of food from goulasch to sushi. Also a winter garden on the 7th/top floor where you can eat. Both of them jammed full at lunchtime especially on a holiday. He loved it but I don't know what he had.

Berlin as a restaurant town may not be Paris or Vienna, or New York for that matter, but I could live with it very happily.

[John F]

My last visit to Prague was 20 years ago, and I kept no diary except of performances. I remember lunch at a remarkable place called At the Blue Duckling (U Modré Kachničky), west of the Moldau and not to much of a walk down from Hradcany Castle. The decor is indescribable but wonderful, and the menu features game (and duck) as well as traditional Czech cuisine. Here's their web site:

http://www.umodrekachnicky.cz/en/nebovidska#interior

More pictures:

https://www.google.com/search?q=u+modre ... 48&bih=767

They have another place downtown, U Modré Kachničky II, and it may be good too, but the original, on a street called Nebovidská, is the one I know.

[jbuck919]

Wow, talk about a flash thread (by analogy with a flash mob)!

I also could not imagine that itinerary without music, but it's Len and Sue's trip. I"m afraid I can offer no words of wisdom, as I never made it to any of those cities in my two years in Germany. (So there's the pot calling the kettle black.) However, if I had a bucket list that included travel and could afford it, I'd be back over there in a minute (well, ten hours) to make up at least a little of what I missed.

[lennygoran]

My last trip to Berlin was in 2005, so the diary I kept of eateries isn't up to date, but I expect these places are still open. A general observation: the Germans haven't banned smoking in public places, so you want to sit in the no smoking area of the restaurant.

Thanks for all the restaurant recommendations! Also we bought 2 tickets for the Prague estates magic flute! On the smoking wonder if this is true?

"The solution for Berliners wanting to avoid smoke is to go where food is served. You can pretty much be guaranteed that where there’s food, there’s no ash, due to a functioning ban in restaurants. That is unless you are sitting outside, sharing a bench as you eat brunch, and the person next to you holds up a cigarette to your ear."

http://needleberlin.com/2013/10/19/berl ... our-lungs/ Regards, Len

[jbuck919]

My last trip to Berlin was in 2005, so the diary I kept of eateries isn't up to date, but I expect these places are still open. A general observation: the Germans haven't banned smoking in public places, so you want to sit in the no smoking area of the restaurant.

Thanks for all the restaurant recommendations! Also we bought 2 tickets for the Prague estates magic flute! On the smoking wonder if this is true?

"The solution for Berliners wanting to avoid smoke is to go where food is served. You can pretty much be guaranteed that where there’s food, there’s no ash, due to a functioning ban in restaurants. That is unless you are sitting outside, sharing a bench as you eat brunch, and the person next to you holds up a cigarette to your ear."

http://needleberlin.com/2013/10/19/berl ... our-lungs/ Regards, Len

Now this I can comment on. It is one of the few areas in which Germany is not among the most enlightened nations, but one of the reasons is one we can appreciate, which is that the tobacco lobby there is strong. You can still find cigarette vending machines on many street corners even in satellite towns like the one where I lived.* There is nothing to keep kids who have the money from purchasing cigarettes from them. Some Germans still think Americans are overly fastidious about this, and snickered when the teachers got together for some occasion at a Gasthaus and specified that it had to be under circumstances of no smoking.

Nevertheless, I cannot remember being seriously bothered by smoking with one exception: To get to the restrooms or the dining car on a German train one usually had to pass through a smoking car, a nauseating throwback to the days when we all had to put up with everybody ruining our comfort in every place except maybe church. Nevertheless, Germans are more and more circumspect about smoking in public indoors, and I don't remember it being a huge problem. It won't be long before they buy into the whole modern program. (Now don't get me started on young US soldiers smoking, which is another topic with features that might surprise you.)

*Strullendorf outside of Bamberg, and I call it a "satellite town," but it dates back 1000 years.

[lennygoran]

Nevertheless, Germans are more and more circumspect about smoking in public indoors, and I don't remember it being a huge problem. It won't be long before they buy into the whole modern program.

Good to hear-I'm spoiled-the smoking problem hasn't existed for me for years! Regards, Len

[John F]

I'd be glad to hear that Berlin restaurants are less smoky than when I was there a decade ago. But it's still a good idea to raise the issue when you arrive, or when/if you make a reservation. Even in good weather, October is a bit late to be eating outdoors in northern Germany, if indeed the restaurant still has outdoor seating.

[Lance]

All sounds so wonderful - and inviting! I well remember my visit to Prague a couple of years ago. Most memorable. Much time was spent in Poland where I found the people, castles, food - and everything else outstanding. Poland seems to be a well-kept secret. I would go back there in a flash. (Of course, the visit to Auschwitz stands clear in my mind ... just a horrible place to walk around. But don't get me started on this!)

[lennygoran]

I'd be glad to hear that Berlin restaurants are less smoky than when I was there a decade ago. But it's still a good idea to raise the issue when you arrive, or when/if you make a reservation.

Thanks, exactly what I'll try to do-I remember on other European trips doing my best to avoid smoke-London, Dublin, Barcelona, Paris-now they are all smoke free in restaurants! Got lucky in Bologna-just 2 weeks before a trip there they had instituted no smoking in restaurants and it was being observed-smoke free in Italy was great! Regards, Len

[lennygoran]

Much time was spent in Poland

Yes that's on our bucket list along with Budapest. Regards, Len

PS-I remember on a trip to Israel many years ago visiting Yad Vashem-very hard to take. Regards, Len

[Agnes Selby]

Lenny, enjoy your wonderful trip. There is much to be enjoyed!

Kind regards,
Agnes.

[lennygoran]

Agnes thanks-a lot of ground to cover.. Len

[THEHORN]

Vasco Da Gama by Meyerbeer sounds really interesting . It's best known as "L'Africaine " and the last production of this anywhere I know of was back around 1990 by the San Francisco opera with Domingo as Vaco Da Gama .
This was shown on PBS and I enjoyed it very much .
It would be worth a Met revival . Have a great time ! I'm green with envy .

[lennygoran]

Vasco Da Gama by Meyerbeer sounds really interesting . It's best known as "L'Africaine "

Yes I'd love to see a production of that opera! Regards, Len

[John F]

I doubt you'd love how Deutsche Oper Berlin will stage it. I've no information about that at all, but it's a safe bet that Eurotrash is in the offing.

[lennygoran]

I doubt you'd love how Deutsche Oper Berlin will stage it. I've no information about that at all, but it's a safe bet that Eurotrash is in the offing.

I'm interested to see what the reviews will say-your doubts are probably well founded! Regards, Len

PS-here's how according to one review the director handled Girl of the Golden West for Berlin:

"Director Vera Nemirova has updated the time of the production to be vaguely contemporary–the action takes place in a global world, with relatively cheap trans atlantic flights. But Wowkle and Billy both wear war bonnets and paint. The rest of their clothing is a mix vaguely contemporary and vaguely historical (Wowkle wears a tunic, but also leg warmers). This is a strange choice in an opera that has presented the other characters as purely contemporary. It erases the existence of contemporary Native Americans. Additionally, war bonnets and paint are reserved for special, often religious, occasions. Not for working as a servant. I found this very disappointing, because up until this point Nemirova and her cast had done a wonderful job of updating Girl of the Golden West to address our current society. The action takes place not in the Wild West, but in a work camp filled with new immigrants to America, who miss their home countries instead of the American east. The first act showed a frank picture of exploitation of recent immigrants and poverty. I liked this change because it didn’t glorify western expansion and because we got to focus on characters who often aren’t included in opera. Immigration and integration/homesickness are hot topics in both Germany and America right now, so it was also a wonderful way to pull the opera into the present. I will admit to feeling homesick myself during the beautiful Act 1 “Che faranno” during which all the men at the camp sing of their families in their homeland. But the portrayal of Wowkle and Billy was truly a missed opportunity to give stage time to more unheard, contemporary voices. Especially in the context of the rest of the opera, the racist and tone deaf portrayal of the characters was frustrating and disappointing."

https://helensberlinoper.wordpress.com/ ... sche-oper/

[maestrob]

I doubt you'd love how Deutsche Oper Berlin will stage it. I've no information about that at all, but it's a safe bet that Eurotrash is in the offing.

I'm interested to see what the reviews will say-your doubts are probably well founded! Regards, Len

PS-here's how according to one review the director handled Girl of the Golden West for Berlin:

"Director Vera Nemirova has updated the time of the production to be vaguely contemporary–the action takes place in a global world, with relatively cheap trans atlantic flights. But Wowkle and Billy both wear war bonnets and paint. The rest of their clothing is a mix vaguely contemporary and vaguely historical (Wowkle wears a tunic, but also leg warmers). This is a strange choice in an opera that has presented the other characters as purely contemporary. It erases the existence of contemporary Native Americans. Additionally, war bonnets and paint are reserved for special, often religious, occasions. Not for working as a servant. I found this very disappointing, because up until this point Nemirova and her cast had done a wonderful job of updating Girl of the Golden West to address our current society. The action takes place not in the Wild West, but in a work camp filled with new immigrants to America, who miss their home countries instead of the American east. The first act showed a frank picture of exploitation of recent immigrants and poverty. I liked this change because it didn’t glorify western expansion and because we got to focus on characters who often aren’t included in opera. Immigration and integration/homesickness are hot topics in both Germany and America right now, so it was also a wonderful way to pull the opera into the present. I will admit to feeling homesick myself during the beautiful Act 1 “Che faranno” during which all the men at the camp sing of their families in their homeland. But the portrayal of Wowkle and Billy was truly a missed opportunity to give stage time to more unheard, contemporary voices. Especially in the context of the rest of the opera, the racist and tone deaf portrayal of the characters was frustrating and disappointing."

https://helensberlinoper.wordpress.com/ ... sche-oper/

Ugh!

[mikealdren]

Good to hear-I'm spoiled-the smoking problem hasn't existed for me for years! Regards, Len

I was in Berlin in December, no smoking in enclosed public places now. In fact I can't think of anywhere in Europe that I've been in recent years and come across smoking in restaurants although there may still be areas in eastern Europe.

Mike

[lennygoran]

Good to hear-I'm spoiled-the smoking problem hasn't existed for me for years! Regards, Len

I was in Berlin in December, no smoking in enclosed public places now. In fact I can't think of anywhere in Europe that I've been in recent years and come across smoking in restaurants although there may still be areas in eastern Europe.

Mike

Mike thanks-that`s great news! Len

[jbuck919]

Good to hear-I'm spoiled-the smoking problem hasn't existed for me for years! Regards, Len

I was in Berlin in December, no smoking in enclosed public places now. In fact I can't think of anywhere in Europe that I've been in recent years and come across smoking in restaurants although there may still be areas in eastern Europe.

Mike

Glad that the more recent information is all to the good. The DoD school where I taught only had one teacher who smoked, or who allowed it to be known that she was a smoker, because she went outside to smoke a couple of times every day. She was (I am tempted to say "of course") the German teacher, who was a local hire.